Unterschiede

Hier werden die Unterschiede zwischen zwei Versionen angezeigt.

--- project:beta-layout:pcbprinter:double-sided_printing [2012-08-08 11:59] – angelegt 91.203.212.124
+++ project:beta-layout:pcbprinter:double-sided_printing [2012-11-01 08:57] – AIHgfJrYIaTBWhFUR 188.143.232.12
@@ Zeile 1: / Zeile 1: @@
-====== pcb-printer: Double-sided printing ======
+If you want to get read, this is how you solhud write.
-{{tag>project hardware pcb electronics process infrastructure}}
-  * Challenge: Get top and bottom layer to align
-  * Improved process draft:
-    - Prepare layout:
-      * Eventually panelize small PCBs for better yield, check [[http://www.neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?page_id=81]]
-      * Put four markers arranged in a rectangle outside of actual PCB area
-        * Markers are a 1mm diameter circular dot with a small hole surrounded by a thin 3mm diameter circle on both top and bottom layer
-      * Here's an example: {{http://dojoe.net/shack/markerexample.png}}
-    - Before printing, make sure that *no* layer has features reaching beyond the markers
-      * Otherwise, the markers will shift slightly when mirroring the layout during printing
-      * The tNames/bNames or tValue/bValue text is a likely candidate for this
-      * Fix: Smash the offending parts, delete the text
-    - Tape a piece of paper to the bottom of the tray, print the top layer to it
-      * We need the markers for later
-    - Cut the PCB into size
-      * Saves etching solution and time
-      * It might be a good idea to file away the burrs (DE: Grat), they'll wreck cloth and paper during cleaning and priming
-    - Clean and prime the PCB, put it into the tray so that it covers the print on paper, print the top layer, cure ink as usual
-    - Drill two 1.5-2mm holes through the exact center of two of the markers
-      * Copper is hard to drill, don't use your precious PCB drills for this
-      * Try to make this drill as precise as possible, your layer alignment will depend on it
-      * What worked for me: Prime the drill with a _precise_ punch mark (I used a large screw and a hammer), position the drill without power, then start drilling
-    - Remove the copper burr (DE: Grat) on the other side!
-      * Don't forget this, or the print head will scratch across the burr and smear ink!
-      * I used a larger drill that I simply turned by hand
-    - Clean & prime the still-empty PCB side
-    - Put the PCB on the tray and align it so that the marker dots are in the exact center of the holes you drilled
-      * Hence the circular shapes -- the human eye can see deviations from a circular shape pretty well
-      * If your holes came out slightly misplaced, use the two most precise holes for this and take into account their misalignment
-    - Fix the PCB in place
-      * The primer will prevent some tapes from sticking properly, maybe double sided tape to the rescue
-      * Or just tape the PCB in place before priming and prime later
-    - Print the bottom layer (mirrored!) and cross your fingers
-      * The outer circles of the markers can be compared against the drill holes to verify alignment
-    - If alignment is "good enough", cure ink and etch